Updated October 2026
Wattle Grove sits on the plain at the southern end of the City of Kalamunda, and the City's planning strategy ties its growth to the same period as Forrestfield, recording that the 1970s saw the development of Forrestfield and the south east of Wattle Grove. It is also listed among the urban areas that are sewered or have access to reticulated sewer.
So this is the straightforward end of the district: flat, serviced and full of roofs that are around half a century old.
We connect you with roof restoration specialists who work the Foothills suburbs below the scarp, where most of the stock is 1960s and 1970s project housing.
What a restoration involves
- Pressure clean to strip moss and the chalky remains of the original tile surface
- Replace cracked or broken tiles, sourced to match the existing profile
- Repoint the ridge and hip capping with modern flexible pointing
- Apply primer and two coats of roof membrane in your chosen colour
On guide pricing only, and from Australian cost guides rather than Perth rates, a full restoration on a typical Hills home usually lands in the thousands. See the cost guide for what moves the number.
What fifty years does to ridge mortar
Rigid cement pointing was never designed for fifty years of a Perth summer followed by a Perth winter, over and over. It cracks, it crumbles into the gutter, the ridge caps start to rock, and tiles slip out of line. That is the job on most Wattle Grove roofs and it is a one-to-two day fix on a single-storey house.
The coating is the second half. A concrete tile that lost its surface decades ago soaks up water and grows moss on the shaded pitch, and sealing and coating it is what stops that cycle. Doing both together costs less than booking them separately, and the cost guide shows the difference.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between repointing and rebedding?
Bedding is the thick mortar base the ridge caps sit on. Pointing is the finishing layer over it. If the caps are rocking loose, sections need rebedding first, and the roofer will say which after getting up there.
Can I just do the worst section?
You can, and for isolated damage it is reasonable. But if one run of fifty-year-old mortar has gone, the rest is the same age and the same mix, so most roofers recommend doing all the ridge and hip lines in one visit.
Is there anything local that shortens a coating's life here?
Less than up in the Hills, honestly. Without heavy canopy overhead, a properly prepared and coated roof on the plain should run the full ten to fifteen years.